One evening, after eating her second raw meal, my Boston Terrier puked all over my bed, taking out three beloved pillows. So, I looked into if it’s normal for dogs to throw-up after switching to a raw food diet.

The short answers

Is it normal for your dog to throw-up after switching to a raw food diet?

It’s fairly common for dogs to vomit or regurgitate food in the first few weeks of their raw diet. Here are a few reasons why:

• Lacking the proper enzymes to digest the pathogens in raw meat
• PH imbalance in the gut (generally from a dry kibble diet)
• Eating too quickly
• Food poisoning (usually from spoiled meat)

Should I take my dog to the veterinarian if they throw-up after eating raw?

Unless your dog vomits multiple times in a short window of time, can’t hold down water, or has blood in his/her vomit or stool – you probably don’t need to rush to a vet. Instead, skip their next meal, switch to a stomach-friendly protein (rabbit or turkey), and wean them off kibble at a slower rate.

What can I do for my dog to help him/her stop throwing-up after eating raw food?

If your dog throws-up their food within minutes of eating – they are most likely regurgitating (not vomiting) their food – and, will need to slow down their eating speed. Slow down their eating speed by serving the raw food frozen or in a Kong toy.

If your dog throws-up within hours of eating – something about the raw food isn’t sitting well in their gut. Here’s what to do in order:

1. Switch to a stomach-friendly protein (rabbit or turkey)
2. Incorporate pancreatitis derived enzyme supplements into their diet
3. Switch to canned dog food and slowly introduce raw food over a 30-day period

What should I do if my dog is still throwing-up after the first couple of weeks switching to raw food?

See a holistic veterinarian with a background in canine nutrition. While biologically appropriate raw food is the ideal diet for most dogs, there may be underlying digestive or autoimmune reasons why cooked or canned food makes sense for your dog.

For help finding a holistic vet, read my post on How to find a vet who supports a raw dog food diet.

Ginny, my Boston Terrier, is a professional thrower upper. She probably vomits bile – a clear, sometimes yellow liquid – once a day.

Why dogs vomit, especially after beginning a fresh raw diet

At a certain point, we were so concerned for her health we rushed off to the vet with a ziplock bag of her puke for testing. Luckily, she left with a clean bill of health.

For Ginny, I’d say at any given time about 5% of the content in her stomach is made up of dirt. It’s not like she runs outside and eats dirt – rather, she brings the frisbee, we throw the frisbee, the frisbee (now covered in drool) collects dirt – and the cycle continues 50 more times.

And that brings us to the first lesson – dogs, unlike humans, can throw-up at will.

An evolutionary advantage to being a carnivore is the ability to expel any potentially harmful toxin in the stomach. Which, makes sense for an animal who eats sun-baked rotting meat on the regular.

For Ginny, the nutritional advantage of digesting dirt doesn’t outweigh the potential disadvantages – so, long story short, she’s put a lot of mileage on my Swiffer.

Vomiting, as I learned, is a fairly common side-effect for newly raw-fed dogs – especially if their prior diet was monotonous.

Humans, compared to most pets, have an extremely varied diet. Yesterday, I had eggs for breakfast, avocado with lunch, and salmon for dinner – and I didn’t feel the need to vomit up my food.

“But, Andrew,” you scream “dogs aren’t humans!”

Yes, and thank God. Because if we ate what feral dogs eat, I’d have pidgeon for breakfast, roadkill for lunch, and a serving of poop to cap-off dinner. My point is, a biologically appropriate fed dogs can handle a lot more variation than the standard kibble-fed dog.

If you were sold the same lies from the pet food industry as I was, then you too were lead to believe dry kibble is a “balanced meal” – and in the interest of your dog’s health, you should feed them the exact same meal day-in and day-out.

So, let’s do a thought experiment – let’s say, starting now, you can only eat burnt biscuits – every day, every meal, for the next year. And then, on the 366th day, I give you chocolate cake.

I’m willing to bet, like your dog, you’d wish you could vomit on command too.

A weak digestive system is the most common reason your dog will vomit on the first week of a fresh raw food diet. Dog’s eat the same meal for an extended period of time have an underdeveloped gut – and lack the proper enzymes, bacteria, and gastric PH level for digesting new foods.

Sometimes also called mono-gut.

So, the first time your dog eats fresh raw food – the gut will work overtime trying to learn how to properly digest it; which, may result in your dog releasing its own escape hatch – and, vomit all over your memory foam pillows.

A moral to this story is to keep your dogs off of any beloved furniture that first week.

That said, mono-gut isn’t the only reason your dog could be throwing up after eating raw food.

Here are a couple of other reasons your dog may be sick:

1 – Your dog isn’t vomiting, but rather regurgitating food

I know it seems like splitting hairs, but there is a big difference. Vomit is when your dog releases the contents of his/her stomach. Regurgitation is when your dog releases the contents of his/her esophagus.

Regurgitation will most commonly happen within minutes of your dog eating. It’s usually an indication your dog is eating too quickly – which, can certainly happen if she/he isn’t familiar with moist food or bones.

The best fix for regurgitation is slowing down their eating speed. I recommend either a) freezing the food before serving or b) stuffing the food into a Kong-like toy (check out Amazon for current pricing).

2 – Your dog has food poisoning

Wolves can eat four-day-old raw meat. Your kibble-fed dog can’t. When you feed raw – especially in the beginning – it is essential the food your serving is fresh; meaning, store the meat you’re using within the next two days in the refrigerator and the rest in the freezer.

If your dog is vomiting multiple times in a short window of time, can’t hold down water, and/or has blood in their vomit or stool – stop reading this and take them to your veterinarian.

What you can do for a dog throwing up the first week of their raw diet

Assuming your dog doesn’t have food poisoning – there are a few things you can do to help them stop vomiting in the first few weeks of raw feeding:

1. Switch to a stomach-friendly protein (rabbit or turkey)
2. Incorporate pancreatitis derived enzyme supplements into their diet
3. Switch to canned (moist) dog food and slowly introduce raw food over 30-days

1 – Switch the protein source

Fatty proteins are harder to digest than a leaner cut of meat. If your dog is struggling with fresh raw meat, then switch over to turkey or rabbit. This also works many times for diarrhea, which you can read more about in my other post, How to Help a Dog with Diarrhea After Switching to Raw.

Once your dog has adjusted to their raw diet, slowly reintroduce the more mainstream proteins, like chicken and beef.

2 – Incorporate an enzyme supplement

If switching the protein source doesn’t stop your dog throwing-up, he/she may just need some outside assistance with digestion.

A balanced raw diet should contain 10 to 15% organ meats – like liver and pancreas – which, is the natural way to aid enzyme production in your dog. So, make sure your raw ratio is right before buying anything.

However, if your raw ratio is correct – an enzyme supplement should help your dog in the interim. Just make sure it’s a) appropriate for canines and b) derived from the pancreas.

There’s a difference between acute vomiting (a few times here and there) and chronic vomiting (consistently for several weeks).

If it’s the latter, find a holistic veterinarian trained in canine nutrition, as your dog may have an underlying issue and/or need a specialized diet.

Good luck, and remember – anything but kibble!

Here’s what I learned and how I helped him get through it:

The short answers

Why does your dog have diarrhea after eating raw food?

• Not enough calcium in their food
• Too much fiber in their food
• Allergic to the protein source (common with beef & chicken)
• Too many calories for their age, body-weight, and activity level
• Lacking proper enzymes for digestion
• PH imbalance in the gut
• Food poisoning from spoiled meat

Should you take your dog to the veterinarian if she/he has diarrhea switching to raw?

Unless your dog has uncontrollable diarrhea & vomiting in a short window of time (signs of food poisoning), blood in their stool/vomit, or a blocked airway, save yourself the trip to the vet. Try these first instead:

• Fast them for 12 to 24 hours
• Make sure 10 to 15% of their meal is raw digestible bone
• Reduce the plant-matter in their meal to less than 20%
• Switch to a stomach-friendly protein source (rabbit or turkey)
• Serve the correct amount of food (2 to 5% of their adult body-weight depending on age and activity level)
• Incorporate pancreatic derived enzyme supplements into their diet

How long should you expect diarrhea after switching to a raw dog food diet?

Assuming you followed the above tips, diarrhea usually clears within two weeks of starting your dog on a raw diet. There are two factors working against your dog’s digestive system during this time:

1. They may not be able to synthesize the correct enzymes for digesting raw meat
2. Their body is in detox-mode, pushing out any toxins from their prior diet – other symptoms include vomiting, mucus in stool, mucus in eyes & ears, excessive shedding, and lethargy

Why dogs have diarrhea the first couple of weeks into their raw diet

Let’s talk about dog poop for a minute.

The reason you may be switching (or considering) switching your dog to a raw diet is because you’ve heard about the wonderful poop.

And this isn’t an exaggeration – raw poop is what made me a believer. The first two dogs I switched to raw made the transition with few problems – minimal diarrhea and maybe one vomit scare.

The poops though…were magical – once large, smelly, and impossible to clean out of a rug – were small, odorless, and easy to clean.

So, when I transitioned Gotti, my rescue Pit Bull, from kibble to fresh raw food, I assumed it would be just as easy. What I didn’t understand was a) Gotti had been on a vegan kibble diet for years and b) he had sensitivities to certain proteins (hence the excuse for vegan kibble).

And, I didn’t make it any easier on him. I wrongly assumed because my other two dogs had no problem switching to raw food overnight, he would have no problems either.

Every dog enters the raw food journey at their own pace – your job is to figure out what your dog’s body is telling you and facilitate the right pace for switching him/her to raw.

Doggy Digestion 101

Dog’s are carnivores – if the sharp teeth aren’t a dead giveaway, then know their stomach is proportionally larger, more acidic, and their digestion tract is shorter – all so they can kill & push out the pathogens in raw meat.

The possible Salmonella or E. coli in raw meat that would kill us, humans – dogs consider probiotics.

But, when we stray away from a species-appropriate diet for dogs – and feed them toxic baked crap, like kibble – their enzymes, bacteria, and stomach acid adjust to tolerate a food source they were never meant to eat.

When a dog tries to digest the carbohydrates mixed into the standard commercial kibble (as much as 50%) – it’s similar to plunging a loaf of bread into your garbage disposal.

Because the food stays in their stomach longer, the PH level of their stomach acids decreases – resulting in a chain reaction of decreased enzyme production from their liver and pancreas.

So, once your dog switches from kibble to eating a biologically appropriate diet, the natural tools they’d normally use to digest raw meat have been severely dulled.

But, all hope isn’t lost – like working out a muscle, most dogs will self-correct their gastric PH and start producing the correct enzymes within a few weeks of switching to raw.

In the meantime, you may see a few side effects from their self-correcting digestion system – primarily diarrhea.

What to do to alleviate diarrhea for a dog new to raw food

So, now that you know WHY diarrhea may happen after starting a raw diet – here’s WHAT you can do to help your dog self-correct his/her gut

1 – Get the raw ratio right

The most common reason for diarrhea – regardless if your dog is new to it or not – is not incorporating enough calcium into their raw meal.

Calcium = Bone

Your dog should be eating 10 to 15% raw bone with their muscle meat. Serve the bone to them raw (DO NOT COOK OR MICROWAVE), and if you’re afraid they may choke, grind it up with a hammer before serving it.

Next, a raw dog diet usually consists of somewhere between 10 and 20% plant-matter low on the glycemic index, which aids in digestion and developing a diverse microbiome (gut bacteria).

However, if your dog is experiencing diarrhea in the first few weeks of eating raw, reduce the plant-matter down to 5% or less. At times like this, I like to use a stomach-friendly fiber, like unsweetened canned pumpkin.

Last, make sure you’re giving your dog the right amount of food for their body-weight, age, and activity level. Typically, it’s going to be somewhere between 2 and 5% of your dog’s body-weight.

But, there are other factors that may be contributing to your dog’s diarrhea – like, how many calories/grams your protein source contains. Stay tuned for an upcoming post dedicated to this topic.

2 – Figure out what’s right for YOUR dog

Every dog is unique – and will face unique challenges when transitioning to a raw food diet.

If getting the ratio right doesn’t alleviate diarrhea within a couple of days, fast your dog for 12 to 24-hours – skip a meal or two and let your dog’s immune system repair their own gut.

Your dog won’t die from not eating a couple of meals – read my post Why skipping a meal (or two) isn’t a big deal for more information.

After the period of fasting is over – switch your dog to a more allergy-friendly protein – like rabbit or turkey. Allergies to chicken and beef (or rather the antibiotics in chicken & beef) are fairly common.

One last note on food allergies (because I can hear the steam coming out of some people in the raw community) – your dog may not be allergic to beef or chicken, but may just have a hard time digesting the fattier types of meat. After the raw transition period is over, and your dog has self-corrected his/her digestive tools (1 to 3-months), reintroduce those proteins just to make sure.

3 – Get the right supplements

Next, if your dog is still experiencing diarrhea after a few days, your last option before the vet should be to supplement the necessary enzymes your dog needs.

I don’t believe you should spend money on supplements unless you absolutely need to. Your dog can absorb many of the proper enzymes from consuming the right percentage of organ meat in their food (10 to 15%).

However, your pup may need a helping hand at the beginning of his/her raw diet journey – so, if you purchase an enzyme supplement, make sure it’s a) appropriate for canine digestion and b) derived from the pancreas.

Last, if your dog’s diarrhea still doesn’t clear after a day or two (I’m so sorry for your carpet), switch her/him to a commercial wet food (with no BPA), and slowly transition him to raw over the course of a month.

In the long run, wet food is not nearly as nutritious as a fresh raw diet, but it’s still streets-ahead of dry kibble.

Anything but kibble.

When you should visit the veterinarian for a dog with diarrhea from raw food

I want to get the common sense items out of the way first.

If your dog a) vomits & has diarrhea multiple times within a short window of time, b) has blood in their vomit or stool, or can’t hold down water – stop reading this and take her/him to the vet immediately.

Luckily, my dog Gotti’s diarrhea cleared up as soon as we switched protein sources (turkey) – and now I’m slowly reintroducing beef.

However, at a certain point, shit may hit the fan (pun intended). If you’ve exhausted all the above options over the course of 4 to 6-weeks, you’ll need counsel from a professional holistic veterinarian with a background in canine nutrition.

For many reasons, mainstream veterinarians are for the most part anti-raw, sometimes dry-kibble salespeople. So, read my post How to find a veterinarian who supports raw feeding before booking the appointment.

Happy pooping!

The short answers

Can dogs eat roadkill?

In general, yes – adult dogs who already eat a raw food diet shouldn’t have any issues eating roadkill, as long as it’s relatively fresh (decaying less than 12-hours). In fact, harvesting & freezing roadkill is a very popular practice among raw feeders in rural areas.

Should dogs eat roadkill?

Because wild animals aren’t pumped full of antibiotics, many argue it’s even more nutritious for your dog than store-bought raw meat. However, there are a few exceptions:

• If you have a puppy, immunocompromised, and/or kibble-fed dog
• If you suspect the dead animal was killed by poison (common with mice/rats)
• Excessive amounts of other dead carnivores (badgers, fox, etc.) as their liver can be toxic

Is it legal for my dog to eat roadkill?

As of the date of this post, it is only legal to harvest roadkill in 27-states; and, of those 27 states, many require a license or registration of some sort. You can check the specific laws of your state here.

How do I know if my dog is okay after eating roadkill?

After eating roadkill, the biggest risk to your dog will be picking up unwanted parasites. Here’s what to look for:

• Roundworm – look for coughing, lethargy, and abdominal swelling
• Coccidium – look for diarrhea, blood in stool, dehydration, and vomiting

Why do dogs eat roadkill?

Dogs are scavenging carnivores – which means their ancestors both hunted and roamed for dead animals. Most dogs will find roadkill from the pungent smell, which may seem gross to humans, but very intriguing to your furry friend.

Let’s go through all this in more detail.

Dogs eating a raw food diet probably won’t have a problem eating roadkill

I feed all three of my dogs a raw food diet; meaning, I put raw meat, bones, and veggies into their bowl at every meal. The practice of raw feeding is very controversial in the mainstream veterinarian community, with the majority of vets simply saying, “don’t do it.”

So, why do I ignore the professionals?

Because raw feeding mirrors what your pet would be eating in the wild. And, despite all the scaremongering from the veterinarian community, I have seen first-hand how raw feeding makes dogs healthier and happier.

For the sake of not straying too far off-topic, read my other article How to find a vet who supports a raw food diet to learn more about why mainstream veterinarian advice strays so far from reality.

I’ve transitioned three dogs to a raw diet – and so far, the biggest mistake I made was throwing one into the deep-end too quickly.

My oldest Boston Terrier, Ginny, switched from dry-kibble to a fully raw diet virtually overnight – and she got so sick we almost ran back to kibble with our tails between our legs. Instead, we ended up mixing wet food and white-meat and slowly transitioning her to darker meat and bones.

If there is one new health rule you swear by for your dog – anything but kibble.

Commercial kibble can have to 50% carbohydrates and low as 18% protein. Although dogs have developed some mechanisms to digest carbs, they are carnivores – so, while they will tolerate this type of diet, kibble will eventually lead to dental issues and degenerative diseases.

Kibble weakens your dog’s microbiome (the bacteria of the gut) and his/her ability to fight off dangerous pathogens.

So, while roadkill is completely safe for an adult dog with a strengthened microbiome from eating raw – a kibble-fed dog could get really sick from the bacteria and parasites often found in roadkill.

My suggestion for you kibble-feeders, if your dog ate road-kill, be extra attentive for any out-of-the-ordinary behaviors – like coughing, vomiting, or blood in the stool, and be prepared for a vet visit if necessary.

If your dog gets sick from roadkill, you’ll generally know within a few hours (dogs digest food much quicker than we do).

For owners who do feed raw, it may seem dangerous, but as long as the dead animal is relatively fresh (12-hours or less), then your dog has the tools to safely digest and extract all the nutrition from the roadkill.

How do you know if roadkill has been decaying 12-hours or less? A good general rule is if you see maggots or smell rot, just walk away.

And in a strange Venn diagram, both a segment of raw feeding enthusiasts and animal activists applaud the practice of feeding roadkill to your pets.

Here’s why roadkill is an even better treat for your dog than store-bought meat:

• It contains the macronutrients normally lost in the time it takes most meat to make it to the grocery store
• It’s not pumped full of antibiotics
• It’s an effortlessly balanced meal – the muscle meat, organs, and bones all balanced by nature
• It’s environmentally sustainable

Last, roadkill is not suggested for puppies (especially before vaccinations) and immunocompromised dogs. What could be deadly bacteria & parasites for dogs with underdeveloped/performing immune systems are practically probiotics for a healthy adult dog.

Is letting your dog eat dead animals & roadkill safe?

That depends on if we’re talking about your dog’s safety or you and your humans’ safety.

When my youngest dog proudly walked in my house with a mouse in her mouth my mind shot to two places real quick:

1. What diseases did you just drag into my house?
2. How did that mouse die?

Dog’s are carnivores by nature – not omnivores, as commonly believed; meaning, they’re able to handle the same deadly bacteria their canine ancestors would encounter in nature.

Humans, on the other hand, are omnivores. And even as far as omnivores go, we have a pretty weak constitution when it comes to bacteria. We shed the ability to safely digest raw food as quickly as we discovered fire.

So, as far as roadkill goes, it can be extremely dangerous for our pets to drag dead animals into our homes. At least for more conventional raw feeders, the meat we buy at the store is pumped full of antibiotics, which reduces our chance of catching Salmonella and E. Coli after handling.

That said, follow these simple rules to keep you and your family safe:

1. Immediately seal roadkill – in a zip-lock bag or saran wrap before bringing it into your car or home
2. Immediately freeze or refrigerate the sealed roadkill
3. If your dog drags roadkill into your home or yard – confiscate immediately, separate him/her from humans for 30-minutes (while digestive enzymes work their magic in his/her saliva), and disinfect all surfaces
4. For dogs who don’t shed, clean their doggy beards! – chin hair can hold bacteria for weeks after exposure

For keeping your dog safe from bad roadkill, ask yourself these questions:

• Where did the dead animal come from? – a dead mouse near your home may have been poisoned, which is toxic for your dog
• What condition is the dead animal in? – stay away from maggots and the unbearable smell of rot
• What type of food did this animal eat in nature? – if the roadkill is a herbivore you’re good to go – if it’s a carnivore understand it’s a lot easier for deadly diseases to be passed to your pet carnivore

Last, make sure it’s legal in your state – more and more states are adopting pro-roadkill feeding laws, but it’s still illegal to pick up dead animals in nearly half of the U.S.

Happy eating!

P.S. – Rey was fine after her mouse meal, but I think she had a deeply emotional attachment to it – every time she’s in the front yard she seems sad.

The short answers

What causes bad breath (halitosis) in dogs?

Most often, bad breath is caused by bacteria living in the plaque build-up on your dog’s teeth. Taking your dog to the vet for a cleaning (semi-annual) and brushing his/her teeth at least 3-times a week is the quickest fix for bad breath.

Will switching my dog to a raw diet fix his/her bad breath (halitosis)?

In the short-term, no – cleaning your dog’s teeth will have a more immediate impact on your dog’s bad breath. In the long-term, absolutely – dry-kibble is a leading cause of plaque build-up and bacteria in your dog’s mouth.

Besides plaque build-up, are there any other causes for my dog’s bad breath (halitosis)?

Yes, here are the other leading causes:

• Gum disease & oral cancer
• Kidney disease
• Consumption of a toxic substance or foreign object
• Diabetes

*If your dog’s breath does not clear after cleaning his/her teeth and switching to a raw-food diet – seek the professional advice of a holistic veterinarian.

Now you can stop holding your breath – let’s dive into this in more detail.

Why dry kibble makes your dog’s breath smell terrible

When I picked up Gotti, my rescue Pit Bull, I was handed a bag of dog food and instructed not switch him to any other food because he had health issues – including, itchiness, yeast infections, and of course stinky breath.

I already feed my other two dogs raw – and I know the health benefits of a raw diet over kibble – so I crossed my fingers when I signed the paperwork and threw the bag of kibble in a trashcan on my way out.

There are two culprits causing plaque build-up on your dog’s teeth – sugar and simple carbohydrates.

Just like humans, dogs have an enzyme, amylase, which breaks down certain carbohydrates for digestion. From a dietary point of view, this is the single biggest difference between wolves and dogs. The mechanisms dogs developed to process starchy foods runs parallel to the mechanisms humans developed at the beginning of the agricultural revolution.

Except, one caveat – where humans produce amylase in their saliva, dogs secrete amylase from their pancreas as an aid to digest the carbohydrates in their stomachs.

In humans, amylase breaks down starchy foods before the molecules have a chance to attach to our teeth. This is important because once starch gets stuck on a tooth, saliva will harden over it forming yellow tartar – which, is a feasting ground for bacteria.

As effective as amylase is in the saliva – about 50% of humans have periodontal disease. And that’s with many of us brush our teeth daily!

Dogs, on the other hand, can’t break down those carbohydrates with just their saliva; and, seeing as dry kibble has up to 50% carbohydrates, and dogs can’t brush their own teeth – our furry friends are f*cked.

In fact, the American Veterinary Dental College put out a study confirming 9 of 10 dogs develop gum disease by the age of three.

90 PERCENT! We have to do better.

So, what does this have to do with your dog’s bad breath?

Well, if your dog eats dry kibble and is not regularly taken to the vet for teeth cleanings, then there’s a 90% chance the horrendous smell coming out of your dog’s mouth is caused by bacteria farts.

Bacteria attach itself to your dog’s plaque build-up by the billions and then proceeds to all fart directly into their mouth.

What you can do about your dog’s plaque build-up and bad breath

1 – Brush your dog’s teeth, immediately.

Go to the store, pick up a dog toothbrush (or your own), and scrub your dog’s teeth at least three times a week.

For an easy homemade solution, simply blend coconut oil and mint – which, will help remove trapped plaque and smell minty fresh.

Last, take your dog for a professional cleaning with your vet at least twice a year. In my case, I took my rescue for a cleaning the first week I had him and his breath was instantly much better.

2 – Switch to a raw food diet.

There’s a saying in a raw dog food Facebook group I belong to: “anything but kibble”

In some sense, dogs evolved with humans to eat carbohydrates out of necessity. Becoming man’s best friend was a survival strategy that forced ancient dogs to tolerate carbohydrates.

TOLERATE is the keyword here. Dogs are scavenging carnivores, and while they may survive without raw meat, their health will suffer over a long period of time without it.

If you prepare raw food at home it can be very similarly priced to kibble – if you buy commercial raw it’s substantially more expensive.

If you don’t have the time or resources to go raw, then buy wet dog food (just check for no BPA) – or do a part kibble, part raw diet, and keep up the brushing three times a week.

What’s so frustrating about switching from a kibble diet to a raw diet is you probably won’t have the support of any mainstream veterinarian. I’m not conspiratorial by nature, but in this case, just follow the money – the American Veterinarian Association is heavily influenced by the same companies selling you dry kibble.

Check out my other article for help finding a vet who will support your decision to go raw.

3 – Feed raw bone as a treat

Once a week I feed Gotti a raw cow femur and he goes crazy for it. But, even better, raw bone is nature’s way of cleaning your dog’s teeth.

Now, there are a few things you absolutely need to keep in mind before giving your dog a raw bone:

• Only serve bones raw – never cook or microwave them, because they will become dry & brittle and could potentially kill your dog
• Serve recreational bones for teeth cleaning – some bones, like chicken, are meant for eating. Other bones, like cow femur or hip, are meant for chewing
• Supervise your dog – especially if they’ve never done it before – although rare, dogs of all sizes can choke on bone fragments

What if your dog’s bad breath isn’t caused by gum disease?

So, worst-case scenario, you’ve followed the above steps and your dog’s breath still stinks like nothing else.

Here are a few other possibilities (all which you’ll want to visit your veterinarian):

1 – Your dog has diabetes – if your dog’s breath smells sweet (like nectar) and he/she is peeing more frequently, then it’s a tall tail (pun intended) sign of diabetes.

2 – liver or kidney disease – again, see your veterinarian as soon as possible for blood work.

3 – Unhealthy gut – if your dog has a week microbiome (the bacteria that make up the gut) then he/she’ll have trouble fighting off dangerous bacteria. Same as the plaque build-up, you’re still smelling bacteria farts, but it’s now coming from the gut. Before heading the vet, try probiotics and low glycemic indexed vegetables as it will promote the growth of healthy bacteria in your dog’s stomach.

Otherwise, get those toothbrushes out and start scrubbing!

The short answer

What’s the difference between frozen & freeze-dried raw dog food?

What is Frozen Raw Dog Food?

First, a raw dog food diet is a combination of meat, bone, and vegetables balanced to mimic what your dog’s closest relative – the wolf – would eat in the wild.

Because commercial raw dog food is substantially more expensive than dry-kibble, many owners buy the ingredients in bulk, blend the correct proportions together, and store it all in the freezer until mealtime. This method of feeding raw usually costs about the same – or less – than buying dry dog-kibble.

Why do owners go through all of the trouble of feeding their dog a raw diet?

Simply put, dry kibble is responsible for many of the degenerative diseases – such as cancer & diabetes – afflicting our pets at record rates. That’s partly because, compared to human food, dog food is barely regulated for quality; meaning, all sorts of preservatives and subpar animal byproducts make it into your dog’s food bowl.

Second, dry kibble does not reflect what dogs would eat in the wild. Although there is ample evidence that dogs have evolved with humans to be able to process carbohydrates and grains – they are primarily scavenging carnivores, thus, they rely on raw muscle & organ meat, bone, and some roughage (veggies) to survive and thrive.

What is Freeze-Dried Raw Dog Food?

Simply put, freeze-dried raw dog food is the exact same as raw food, except the moisture has been removed via a process called ‘freeze blasting.’

Whereas regular raw food must be stored in a freezer for extended periods of time, the freeze blasting process in freeze-dried raw food deactivates harmful bacteria, as well as nutritional enzymes, hence can be stored at room temperatures.

To feed your dog freeze-dried raw dog food, all you have to do is remove the correct number of nuggets for your dog (based on body-weight), add water, a viola – a healthy meal. In a lot of ways, this is even more convenient than feeding raw food the conventional way, as thawing frozen dog food takes planning and foresight.

In case you’re here because you messed up and forgot to take out the raw dog food last night – no worries, check out my article on the quickest way to defrost raw dog food here.

Honestly, besides a fairly short road-trip, freeze-dried raw dog food is a godsend when you’re traveling, especially by air. You can even store it as a carry-on. However, always declare it if you are going through customs, as you are technically bringing meat into a new country.

Is Freeze-Dried Dog Food as good as Raw?

Simply put, freeze-dried dog food is not as good as regular raw for two primary reasons:

1. Although the freeze-blasting process does minimal damage to the nutritional value of the food, it still kills valuable micronutrients, such as enzymes, fragile fatty acids, and phytonutrients
2. Desperate to capitalize on the recent wave of pet owners switching to raw, the pet industry (dry kibble manufacturers) are putting out freeze-dried brands with junk ingredients

For an established and long-trusted freeze-dried brand, check out The Simple Food Project.

Is Freeze-Dried Dog Food More Expensive Than Raw?

Freeze-dried dog food is substantially more expensive than commercial and DIY raw food.

As of the time I’m writing this, the average price for a 14oz bag of freeze-dried food is $30 and would feed a 100 lb dog for less than two days – as opposed to commercial raw which is an average of $18/day – and DIY raw, which costs me an average of $7 per day.

Is Freeze-Dried Dog Food Safer Than Raw?

For dogs, freeze-dried dog food and fresh raw dog food pose about the same health risks – next to none.

On the other hand, for humans, freeze-dried dog food on paper is safer than fresh raw food. According to the FDA, Salmonella is 4-times more likely to be present in frozen raw food vs freeze-dried raw dog food.

Of course, if you use common sense and practice safe handling & cleaning of all raw food – Salmonella is not going to affect you or your family.

Check out my article Can My Dog Lick My Face After Eating Raw to learn more about Salmonella risks and for best practices when handling raw meat.

Happy feeding!

Here’s what I found out:

How to get a picky dog to eat raw organ meat

Start small and work your way up. Dogs depend on their sense of smell (rather than taste) for deciding what to eat – so, blend 30% of the goal portion of organ meat into your dog’s regular meal, and add 10% more to the blend every day.

If your dog still refuses to eat organ meat, start even smaller (like a 10% blend), and mask the smell by freezing the organ meat (in small pieces) before serving.

And if your dog still refuses to eat organ meat, here are a few other tricks:

• Lightly sear the organ meat in a pan before serving
• Boil the organ meat for a few minutes before serving
• Test different organ meats from different animal protein sources

Start Small When Introducing Your Dog to Organ Meat

I should have known better. I half-heartedly threw a whole cow liver into my Pit Bull’s bowl and just expected him to know what to do with it.

My other two dogs, both small Boston Terriers, have been eating raw food for a couple of years. They’re used to the smell and texture of raw meat, and consequently, more open to trying new things. I guess they’re sort of like the dog versions of a foodie.

We rescued our Pit Bull, Gotti, a few months ago – and, like any dog who’s been in the same shelter for a few years, he’d been “institutionalized.” Twice per day, week after week, he ate the exact same dry, bland kibble the shelter used.

After the shelter staff handed me a bag of kibble and strict instructions, I knew we had to transition him to a raw diet. Aside from already feeding our dogs raw, Gotti did not look healthy – he was overweight, lethargic, and his skin was covered with lesions and hotspots, presumably from allergies.

I grabbed the of IAMS and nodded along to the staff’s instructions – discussing raw with mainstream animal care usually isn’t worth the headache.

Rotating your dog’s food is always a good idea, regardless of whether or not your feed raw. If a dog has only eaten dry kibble – or one type of animal protein for an extended period, then their digestive system and microbiome (the bacteria in the gut) may not have developed the proper enzymes to break down new food.

Introducing a dog to a new environment – with new rules and other animals – is stressful enough as it is. Not only is completely changing their diet that early on an unnecessary stressor, but it could also cause your dog to get really sick and/or spur behavioral issues.

So, for transitioning our dog from kibble to raw we started small and gradually worked our way up:

Many people in the raw feeding community disagree with feeding kibble and raw at the same time. The main reason cited being ‘the gastric ph required for kibble and raw is so different it could make your dog sick’ (which I find hard to believe). But, if you suspect kibble + raw is upsetting your dog’s stomach, try transitioning them to wet canned food first (look for non-BPA on the label).

Gotti’s transition from kibble –> raw went without a hitch. He enjoyed raw so much, we probably could have completely switched him in as little as three weeks with no problems – but, I was being extra cautious.

So, yes, I was a bit thrown off when he refused the cow liver I threw into his bowl. I mean, Gotti is a big boy, and from what I could tell, he had no food left behind policy.

Organ Meat is the Smelliest of all the Meats…

Why is this important? Dog’s have very few tastebuds compared to humans, but their sense of smell trumps ours 40x over.

Where a human’s portal to the world is usually sight- a dog’s portal to the world is their sense of smell. A strong, unfamiliar smell could mean danger.

Don’t get me wrong – he had been eating raw organ meat all along, which is blended into the raw mix we purchase from a local butcher. But, it’s essential to mix different organs from different animal sources regularly into your dog’s raw food.

So, to get my dog comfortable with stand-alone organ meat, I, once again, started small and worked my way up:

And I didn’t put the organ meat into a blender or grinder – instead, I chopped it into small pieces and wrapped my raw blend (ground meat works too) around the organ meat by hand.

And you know what? Since then, my Pit Bull rescue has been a lot more open to a variety of standalone organ meats – including eyes, intestines and kidney.

In fact, the only time since I’ve had to slowly introduce organ meat was with green tripe (cow stomach) – which smells strong enough that you’re roommates or family will temporarily hate you.

Minimize The Smell of Organ Meat For Your Dog When Necessary

So, as we learned in the previous section – your dog most likely isn’t eating the raw dog meat because of its strong unfamiliar smell. In nature, strong smells can be associated with danger – like threats from other predators and poison.

A few ways to alter the smell of organ meat:

1. Freeze the organ meat before serving
2. Blend organ meat or (smash it with a hammer) and dilute the smell with ground meat
3. Slightly cook the organ meat before serving by either boiling or searing it

Of the three suggested ways, number three is the least recommended, and should only be used when absolutely necessary. The whole point of serving organ meat is the plethora of minerals and nutrients your dog will absorb from eating it – cooking it will kill those nutrients!

Check out Raw Dad’s video on Youtube for even more detailed tips:

Test Different Organs and Protein Sources with Your Dog

A pet peeve (pun intended) of mine is when online bloggers suggest buying more things for the sake of buying more things. Assuming your feeding on a budget, I don’t suggest you buy an assortment of different organs all at once.

That said, dogs, like humans, can also have preferences, and ‘favorite foods’ – and you won’t really know until you put it in front of them.

Whenever you go grocery shopping, make it a point to bring home one new organ meat from a new protein source. Try elk liver, fish eyes, cow brain, duck pancreas – the list is long.

If they don’t like the organ meat you bought, just slowly blend it into their regular meals as suggested above.

In nature, dogs are scavenging carnivores – meaning, they have an extremely varied diet. Dogs can only synthesize 12 amino acids, and they rely on a variety of animal proteins for the rest.

A variety of protein sources will diversify your dog’s microbiome (the portfolio of bacteria in the gut) – and diverse microbiomes are directly correlated with healthier immune systems and longer lifespans.

There really isn’t a better feeling than finding a food your dog goes nuts over; plus, it really helps plan out next year’s birthday cake.

Related Questions

How Much Organ Meat Should I Feed My Dog?

Contrary to the prey-model diet, which recommends 10% organ meat, a balanced raw diet should actually include around 20% organ meat, 50% muscle meat, 10% bone, and 20% vegetables. These percentages are much closer to a wolf or a dog’s diet in the wild.

Is Too Much Organ Meat Bad For My Dog?

Yes, as healthy as organ meat is, an excessive percentage of it in your dog’s diet (40%+) can have serious health consequences. The most common is vitamin A toxicity, which can cause your dog’s joints to stiffen, and, in extreme cases, paralysis.

Here’s what I found out:

Is it okay to let your dog lick your face after eating raw food?

For an adult with a healthy immune system, you will most likely be fine. It’s recommended you wait for at least 30-minutes they eat before letting your dog lick your face or any open wounds on your body, which will give their saliva ample time to kill dangerous pathogens.

Yes, your dog’s saliva can expose you to infectious diseases – like Salmonella; but, the benefits may outweigh short-term risk as it also exposes you to over 50% of your dog’s microbiome (and vice-versa), and diverse microbiomes are correlated with healthier immune systems and longer lifespans.

For the immunocompromised -young, old, or those with an auto-immune disorder – dogs should never be allowed to lick your face, as it could pose serious negative long and short-term health consequences.

Why Should I Wait for 30-Minutes Before Letting My Dog Lick My Face?

Although dogs do not contain any enzymes for digesting food in their saliva (it’s heavily debated in the community), they do possess antibodies and other chemicals for killing and breaking down bacteria. Dog saliva has even been reported to have antibacterial effects.

But beware, according to the FDA, dangerous bacteria, such as Salmonella, can be found in most raw meat sold in the United States.

30-minutes should be plenty of time for the bacteria from their raw-meat meal to be destroyed by your dog’s saliva – but, that does not mean your dog’s saliva is bacteria-free.

In fact, your dog’s saliva is always packed with bacteria – which could pose serious negative and positive long-term effects on your health.

How Can I Tell If I Got Salmonella From a Dog Licking My Face?

According to the FDA:

…most people experience diarrhea, abdominal cramps, and fever within 8 to 72 hours after the contaminated food was eaten. Additional symptoms may be chills, headache, nausea, and vomiting.

www.fsis.usda.gov

Most healthy adults will get over their symptoms within 4 to 7-days after getting the bug – and some won’t show any symptoms at all.

Every year, countless people get Salmonella from their dogs without even realizing it – regardless of whether or not their dog is eating raw.

Dogs who do eat a raw diet are a lot more likely to transmit Salmonella to their owners – but not because of face-licking, but instead pet feces. If you are feeding your dog raw, I strongly advise you have your dog poop on walks, and not in the same yard you or your children play!

For immunocompromised individuals – which include young children, seniors, and people with auto-immune disorders – Salmonella can be downright deadly. If you are an immunocompromised individual or have someone in your family who is, do not let your dog lick your face. Ever.

As tough as it is to not get puppy licks – I’d rather be a dry dog owner than a dead dog owner.

What Steps Should I Take to Protect Me and My Family From Salmonella?

Here are my suggestions to protect you and your family from Salmonella:

• Have your dog poop on walks away from where you live – if they do poop near your house, promptly dispose of the feces and disinfect indoor areas if necessary
• Have a conversation and set ground rules with your children – the temptation for face-lickings is strong, so, if necessary, separate your children from your dog until they respect the rule
• Practice basic safety practices when handling raw food – clean food bowls after every meal with a separate sponge, only let your dog eat raw meat on floors you can disinfect, freeze and refrigerate raw meat until just before use

Are There Other Potential Long-Term Health Effects From Letting Dogs Lick My Face?

Dog’s put their noses into everything – trash, dead animals, poop, their butt, other dog butts. You get my point.

So regardless of whether you feed raw or not, your dog is going to build up quite the collection of dangerous bacteria in their mouth, and it’s going to hang out in the plaque buildup in her/his teeth.

You can easily transmit the following diseases from your dog:

• Gingivitis & other Periodontal diseases (including cancer)
• Ring Worm
• Staph Infection
• Parasites (such as Roundworm & Tapeworm)
• Capnocytophaga Canimorsus

Capnocytophaga Canimorsus – where parts of your face and limbs will start falling off – is extremely rare, but horrendous to see. If your kids still won’t stop letting the puppy lick their face, just Google it and show them pictures.

But, once again, the real killer is plaque build-up in your pup’s mouth – another reason to regularly brush your dog’s teeth!

For even more information on why dog saliva should be keeping you up at night – see ScIQ’s informative video below:

What Else Should I Know About Getting Licked by My Dog??

Excuse me while I play both good cop/bad cop for a second.

First, the bad news: if you or someone you know think they are allergic to dog fur or dander – they’re actually more likely allergic to dog saliva. But hey! At least that’s a lot easier to dodge than all the dog hair in your house.

Last, even after researching and writing this article, I have a confession to make: I’m still going to let my dogs lick my face…

Puppies have been licking this face since 1989 and as far as I know, it’s never gotten me sick. In fact, there’s actually evidence suggesting dog saliva can actually help your immune system in the long term.

When scientists studied the microbiomes (the healthy bacteria in your guy) of both dogs and their owners – they found that both share over 50% of the same bacteria. And diverse microbiomes have been directly correlated with longer lifespans in both you and your pet.

Check out UW’s video on it!

Related Questions

Why Does My Dog Lick My Face So Much?

Here are a few reasons why your dog is obsessed with licking your face:

• For appeasement – “I mean you no harm”
• To check if you’re okay
• To welcome you or let you know of their presence
• Because your face is sweaty and tastes like salt
• To show you affection

Is Salmonella Bad For My Dog?

Adverse effects from Salmonella are practically non-existent in dogs. Your dog is a carnivore – with a shorter GI Tract, and special digestive enzymes – thus able to handle pathogens that are incredibly dangerous to humans.

Problematically, veterinary professionals will often tell us Salmonella is “asymptomatic” in our pets – which means your dog can have the bacteria but not show any symptoms.

Well, yes – dogs have all sorts of nasty bacteria in them – including E. Coli and parasites. Dogs with a healthy immune system (a primary reason you should feed raw) will have no problem processing and quickly excreting those pathogens away.

What we consider to be deadly bacteria, are – most of the time – likeprobiotics to your dog.

How Can I Reduce Plaque Build-Up in My Dog’s Mouth?

Here are the simplest ways to reduce & prevent plaque build-up in your dog’s mouth:

• Brush your dog’s teeth at least three times a week
• Take your dog for semi-annual dental cleanings at your vet
• Switch to raw food and incorporate raw bone in their diet

As much as other raw feeders want you to believe a purely raw diet will take care of plaque build-up – I assure you that’s not the case. Don’t get me wrong, going raw is WAY healthier for your pup’s teeth – but, it’s not a magic bullet.

Brush their teeth dog-dangit.

How should you go about finding a veterinarian who supports raw feeding?

1. Find a holistic vet in your area, preferably one who specializes in animal nutrition – you can do so at ahvma.org
2. Utilize social sites like Facebook and Nextdoor for recommendations from local raw feeders
3. Call and ask, “What are your thoughts on feeding raw?” – if they’re against it – simply move on
4. If you don’t have any options in your area, stay away from veterinary franchises (like the VCA), and go to your first appointment ready to defend your decision to feed raw

Why should you find a veterinarian who supports raw feeding?

• The specifics of a raw diet can vary from pet-to-pet – and a certified veterinary nutritionist is qualified to make those calls
• Feeding your dog an unhealthy, unbalanced raw diet can be more detrimental to his/her health than dry kibble
• Modern medicine has a major role in the overall wellbeing of your pet – you want a vet who knows when let nature take its course and when to intervene

Why Should I Find a ‘Holistic’ Veterinarian?

The primary goal of a holistic veterinarian is to take into account all the factors affecting your dog’s health and execute the most minimally invasive treatment possible.

As opposed to Western medicine – which, typically takes the mechanic approach to care. Where does it hurt? How do I make it not hurt anymore? Here’s a pill to make it not hurt anymore…

I’m not implying Western medicine is a bad thing – modern advances in healthcare have saved and improved the quality of countless lives (for both humans and our pets) – in fact, modern care is so efficient at relieving our symptoms, the root causes of those symptoms can be completely missed.

A holistic vet, on the other hand, is more likely to investigate other factors affecting your dog – such as behavior, home life stressors, genetics, medical history, and of course diet & nutrition. Ideally, a holistic vet wants to identify the root causes (there’s most likely multiple) of your dog’s ailment and give him/her the tools to recover using their own immune system.

For reasons I’ll get into later in the article, holistic veterinarians are a lot more likely to embrace raw feeding, because a) it’s outside the mainstream of veterinary practice and b) in addition to their mainstream veterinary education, they’ve also received additional education in canine nutrition.

I Don’t Have a Holistic Veterinarian in My Area – What Now?

If you don’t have a holistic veterinarian in your area – don’t panic yet! There may be pro-raw vets in your area who don’t practice holistic medicine.

1 – Join the Nextdoor App and find local raw feeders – if they’ve been feeding raw for a long time then they’ve most likely found a supportive vet

2 – Search “raw feeding for dogs” in Facebook groups – most regions have a local group

*Pro-tip: The Nextdoor App is a great resource for finding neighbors with freezer burnt raw meat to spare. Also, local FB groups typically know the best butchers in town!

Even if a vet doesn’t practice holistic medicine, knowing they are onboard with raw-feeding is a huge advantage. You’ll have the piece of mind knowing a) your vet is familiar with balancing raw food diets and b) they won’t food-shame you and your dog.

Why Should I Stay Away From Veterinary Hospital Chains?

I’ll get straight to the point on this one – veterinary chains are either in or vulnerable to being in the pocket of the pet food industry.

Don’t believe me? Then why does Mars, Inc. – the candy bar company – own nearly 2,000 animal hospitals throughout the country?

Is it because they love animals?

No, it’s because they own 9 pet food brands – including Pedigree, IAMS, and Nutro – and they found another avenue to shove their toxic kibble down our throats.

“But, Andrew…” you say, “there are nearly 30-thousand veterinarian hospitals across the country – why avoid the EVERY franchise?”

Because this is not going to stop. Mars Inc is on a buying rampage and other pet food manufacturers will be soon to follow.

…And that’s about as conspiratorial as I like to get in this blog.

Why is it so Difficult to Find a Veterinarian Who Supports Raw Feeding?

Here are the most common reasons veterinarians object to the raw food diet for your dog:

1. Raw foods diets aren’t balanced
2. Raw food diets aren’t regulated
3. Raw food diets expose both people and pets to dangerous bacteria, such as Salmonella and E. Coli
4. Raw food diets can result in tragedy, such as pets choking on bones
5. There is no scientific research proving that raw diets are more beneficial for your pet than kibble

I feel there is merit to each of these claims, so let’s examine each in more detail

1 – Raw foods diets aren’t balanced – it’s extremely important to do your homework before starting your dog on a raw diet. One reason vets are so critical of raw feeding is they see so many horror stories. Most commonly, when owners only feed their pet ground meat resulting in a very sick dog.

Your dog needs to eat muscle meat, organs, bone, and vegetables to thrive – make sure you know the how and what of raw feeding.

2 – Raw food diets aren’t regulated – this is true, and if you are purchasing your raw food from a commercial supplier you’ll want to make sure they have a great reputation. If you are prepping the raw diet yourself, then look for grade A, grass-fed meat when financially feasible.

3 – Raw food diets expose both people and pets to dangerous bacteria, such as Salmonella and E. Coli – also 100% true – in fact, in a study cited by the AMA, up to 80% of home raw meals may contain Salmonella. Dogs are carnivores – they have a digestion system designed to handle dangerous bacteria. Salmonella is their version of a probiotic.

Humans, on the other hand, cannot handle dangerous bacteria like Salmonella – and there have been statewide outbreaks originating from homemade raw food.

Do everyone a favor and follow these safety protocols when handling raw meat:

• Wash dog bowls with a separate sponge after every meal
• Feed your dog(s) on a hard surface you can disinfect (disinfect after every meal if you have kids!)
• Take your dog on regular walks so they can poop away from where you and your kids play
• Freeze all meat until you’re ready to feed it to your dog, and only leave it in your fridge for a maximum of seven days

I’ve been feeding my dogs raw for nearly two years now and have never had a problem. So, I believe in you.

4 – Raw food diets can result in tragedy, such as pets choking on bones. When feeding your dog bones, I recommend sticking with raw (uncooked) chicken bones. Never feed your dog cooked bones! Other than that, just serve ground bone and you’ll never have a problem.

Aside from that, YOU KNOW YOUR DOG BETTER THAN ANYONE ELSE – if you have a small chihuahua, leaving it alone with relatively giant chicken bone isn’t a good idea. If you have a dog who gulps down food in a split second, whole bones are probably off the table.

5 – There is no scientific research proving that raw diets are more beneficial for your pet than kibble – this is also true, but that’s because more studies into raw feeding haven’t been funded. Instead, the studies your veterinarian will most likely quote have been funded by the pet food industry. And somehow those studies keep proving dry, tasteless kibble is the epitome of dog nutrition.

What If My Only Option is a Veterinarian Who Doesn’t Support Raw Feeding?

It’s a difficult situation; but, that’s why I provided the above list – so that you can do your homework before that first visit.

Your vet has the best intentions for the health of your dog – however, there are many forces dissuading him/her from accepting raw food as a viable diet for your pet.

Instead of attacking their thoughts, just come prepared to defend yours, and open to having a discussion with the vet. A decent vet may not like the diet, but they will do everything in their power to support you and the health of your dog.

Why is it okay for your dog to skip a meal?ñÒ Simply put, the energy your dog would have spent digesting food is free to repair their body and strengthen their immune system. Fasting is only recommended for adult dogs (1+ years), on a balanced raw food diet, and for no longer than 48 hours. ñÒ

For a Dog, Skipping Meals is in Their DNA

The term “Wild Health” was coined by Dr. Barbara Royal, author of The Royal Treatment*. It’s a holistic approach to animal care with the guiding principle an animal’s behavior in its natural habitat should guide the health decisions we make for our pets at home.

*SIDE NOTE: If you’re curious about raw feeding, The Royal Treatment is a great place to start. Here is an Amazon link to the book.

So, how does “Wild Health” apply to your dog? – your fluffball Pomeranian is as far from “wild” as it gets, right?

Well, it’s true the modern dog is the most successfully domesticated animal in human history. But, your little fluffball still shares 98.8% of its genetic makeup with the gray wolf.

In fact, dogs and wolves can mate and birth fertile puppies (e.g. puppies who will also be able to reproduce someday). That’s a big deal. Different species of elephants can’t do that.

So, as the theory goes, the eating habits of the gray wolf is indicative of the optimal eating habits of your dog. Wolves are scavenging carnivores who eat when they can get it – not on a tight two-a-day schedule. One day they may feast on deer and two days later they may get lucky and nab a tasty rabbit.

Regularly Scheduling Meals is a Human Construct We Impose on our Dogs

At this point, you may be thinking, “So, just because wolves do it my dog has to too?” Like, if all the wolves jumped off of a bridge, blah blah blah.

Even though our dogs look wildly different from their wild counterparts, they still share a stunningly similar digestive system. And, Mother Nature tends to know what’s best for its animals, including dogs.

Dogs, like us, generate their cellular energy from mitochondria, often regarded as the “powerhouse” of any animal body. Mitochondria is responsible for every movement we make, whether it’s voluntary, like moving your hand, or involuntary, like a heart circulating blood through the body.

Converting food into energy is a huge endeavor for the body. This is partly why we tend to feel so tired after eating a huge meal. And because of the resources it takes, the body often has to sacrifice other functions, like self-repair, in order to meet the energy demands of digesting food

Imagine for a second the body as an automobile – the gas represents food, which is meant to make the car move. What if the car has to move whenever there’s gas in the tank? How much more difficult is an oil change when the car is moving? How much more dangerous is it when the engine is running?

Luckily, we can turn the keys and shut off a car. That’s not the case with you or your dog.

By regularly fasting your dog, you are allowing its body to shed and produce new mitochondria, strengthen its immune system, so she/he can more effectively heal and ward off infection & disease.

For even more information, check out this great video from Rodney Habib’s Youtube Channel:

Should You Intentionally Fast a Dog?

I have three adult dogs, all over a year old – and I make it a habit to fast them one day a week. This means each of my dogs skips two consecutive meals once a week – usually on the weekends when I have more time to distract them.

First, I wouldn’t recommend skipping meals for a puppy under one year. Puppies are notoriously hungry for a reason, and the chemical reactions in their bodies are all pointed towards growth. Growing body mass requires a lot of food at this stage of their life, so it’s not a good idea to deny them any.

Next, I solemnly believe in feeding my dogs a raw diet. For those unfamiliar with the term, it goes back to the “Wild Health” philosophy I mentioned earlier in the article. I feed my dogs as close a possible to what they would eat in the wild – high amounts of raw animal protein, moderate amounts of healthy fats, some veggies, and minimal grains and carbohydrates.

What does a raw diet have to do with your dog skipping meals?

1 – A raw diet contains a moderate amount of healthy fat – and dogs are well equipped to use this fat as an energy source for long periods of time. So while they may be hungry the first few hours I fast them, their body quickly gets with the program and taps into those energy reserves.

2 – Dry kibble contains a high amount of carbohydrates derived from grains – which dogs are ill-equipped to use as an energy resource. If your dog eats dry kibble, they’re going to burn through those carbohydrates in a just a few hours, and come looking for you to put down the food bowl for their next energy fix.

If your dog is currently eating kibble – I strongly recommend going a) raw and b) not forcing her/him to skip meals. All it will do is make them really cranky and potentially cause long-term behavioral issues.

However, if your dog doesn’t feel like eating when you put down the bowl – great! Don’t force it on him/her, but allow them to decide what’s right for their body, and when they need extra energy to heal.

Last, if this type of fasting all sounds vaguely familiar to you, then you’re probably thinking of intermittent fasting – which is sweeping the United States at the moment.

Intermittent fasting yields just as many positive effects for the human body as it does for your dog. Learn more at the Keto Kamp Youtube Channel for more information on fasting your dog:

If My Dog Skips a Meal, Should I Double the Proportions of the Next Meal?

Personally, I never double proportions – but rather add 1.5 times what they would’ve originally eaten. I do this for a couple of reasons:

1. Your dog’s stomach will shrink, especially if they skip two meals. If you give them two to four times a regular meal, you’re just asking for them to puke all over your new sofa.
2. Let’s go back to the automobile analogy – if your dog’s body is the equivalent of a car, then the more fuel you put into it the more mileage you’ll put onto it. The more calories you put into your dog the more…mileage you put onto her/him? Okay, the metaphor is sticky, but you get the idea.

Last, if my dogs miss one meal – I add 1.5 times to the next meal. If my dog misses two meals – I add 1.5 times to the next two meals. I don’t have any science to back it up – it just feels right.

When Should I Be Concerned About My Dog’s Loss of Appetite?

My dogs are my family – and there is no amount of debt I wouldn’t take on to make sure they’re living healthy, happy lives. But, I do believe we’ve been culturally programmed to rush to the veterinarian at the drop of a hat.

Yes, I get it, they can’t talk…

But, if something is truly wrong with your dog, you will see signs, such as:

• Blood in the stool
• A drastic change in behavior – especially aggression
• Unrestefullness – they constantly look in pain
• Uncontrollable vomiting
• Not drinking water
• White gums (which could also be dehydration)

If your dog skips two, even three meals, and there are none of the above signs, perhaps they’re fighting off an infection. Let their bodies do what they were designed to do.

After the third meal, I’d call my vet to let them know what’s going on. You can schedule a preliminary appointment for the next morning.

If your dog goes two full days without eating – something is probably up. Never force food on them, but at a certain point, hop into the car. It’s time to go to the vet.

How Long Can My Dog Go Without Eating?

And, just in case you’re curious, a dog can go up to five days without food before it will begin to experience serious problems, like kidney failure.

But, of course, we won’t be letting it get that far, right?

Happy fasting!

So, what’s the quickest way to defrost your raw dog food? You can defrost a small to moderately-sized block of meat within 10 to 20-minutes by rinsing it under hot water. You’ll need a large pan, Ziplock bag, and running hot water to do this.

The Pan Rinse Method For Defrosting Raw Dog Food:

1. Run the hot water in your kitchen sink – ideally, the water should be too hot to hold your hand under it longer than a second
2. Place the meat in a Ziplock bag (if it isn’t sealed already)
3. Place your block of meat in a metal pan, bowl, or tray deep enough to cover its entire mass
4. Run the water over the block of meat – if possible, the water shouldn’t be directly hitting the meat (but the water surrounding it)
5. Double-check the meat is 100% submerged in the water – you’ll most likely have to weigh it down with a heavy object
6. Run the water for 10 to 20-minutes, periodically checking to make sure the meat is still submerged
7. Carefully remove the meat and immediately store anything unused into the refrigerator (not the freezer)

Is The Pan Rinse Method the Safest Way to Defrost Raw Dog Food?

I’m not going to lie – I forget to thaw out my food ahead of time more than I care to admit. At this point, I’ve used the Pan Rinse Method dozens of times and my dogs have never had any issues, such as vomiting or diarrhea.

But, a major concern with this method is the spread of dangerous pathogens, and hot temperatures will slightly cook the meat, which is like a nice weekend getaway for bacteria. This is why I recommend putting any unused meat inside the refrigerator as soon as possible.

Dogs, by nature, are much better at processing bacteria than we are – however, YOU KNOW YOUR DOG BETTER THAN ANYONE. If your dog regularly gets sick/needs a trip to the vet, the Pan Rinse Method probably isn’t for you.

That said, I don’t recommend using this method for your own food unless you plan on eating all of the meat in one sitting (which should cook out the bacteria). We just don’t have the stomach for it.

Is There an Alternative Way to Quickly Defrost Raw Dog Food without Hot Running Water?

Perhaps your kids (or inconsiderate roommate) used up all the hot water this morning? No worries, there’s another way – but, it will add about 10 more minutes to the process and require more attention.

1. Find a pan larger than the block of meat you need to defrost and fill it with water
2. Heat the pan on medium on your stovetop for about 10-minutes – it should be at a pre-boil, which is when you just begin to see bubbles
3. Place the sealed block of meat in the pan, and submerge with a wooden or rubber spoon (Important, we do not want to weight the food down and walk away because it will overcook the bottom)
4. Carefully remove the meat after 10 to 15-minutes – immediately place any unused meat in your refrigerator (again, not the freezer)

What’s the Safest Way to Defrost Raw Dog Food?

Hands down, the safest way to defrost raw dog food is to take it out of the freezer and put it directly into the refrigerator. This method can take 12 to 36-hours depending on how much meat we’re talking about.

The next best way is to repeat the exact steps at the top of this article, except with room temperature water. It can take up to an hour to defrost your meat this way, but it is effective and safer (if bacteria is a concern).

Last, simply taking the meat out and letting it sit at room temperature will take somewhere between 2 and 4-hours to defrost. However, this is my least favorite option, because I have a tendency to forget about it.

And any meat that has been sitting at room temperature for more than two hours should be thrown out.

How Long Will Defrosted Raw Dog Food Stay Good in the Fridge?

If you used the Drowning Pan Method or the stovetop method, you’re not going to want to keep that meat in the fridge any longer than 3 days. Remember, those methods lightly cook the meat, which may make it bacteria more of a concern.

If you don’t think you can use all of the meat in less than 4 days, then, no problem – simply let it sit in the fridge for a few hours, until it’s 100% defrosted, and stick it back in the freezer.

Everything else can generally stay up to a week. Use your best judgment though – if it smells funny, it’s time to go.

Why Can’t I Just Microwave Raw Dog Food?

I can’t stress this enough: NEVER MICROWAVE RAW DOG FOOD!

NEVER!

Besides the plethora of studies proving microwaves kill essential nutrients in food (which, kind of defeats the purpose of going raw) – microwaving raw food can be outright deadly.

A well-balanced raw dog meal most likely has bones in the mix. Raw bones are soft and chewy (relatively) because they still have water and nutrients in their cells; however, when you microwave bone, you are sucking out all that delicious soft chewiness, and you’re left with brittle, dry, bone.

Imagine eating a bowl of wood splinters. That’s the equivalent of your dog eating microwaved bone and is a leading cause of pet deaths a la internal bleeding.

Yes, microwaves are quick and easy – but they have no place in raw pet food.

Can’t My Dog Just Eat Frozen Raw Dog Food?

Heck ya, your dog can!

In fact, feeding your dog it’s raw meal frozen can be a great 30-minute distraction while you’re off to work or running errands. It’s even beneficial for teeth cleaning.

There are a couple of challenges to feeding your dog frozen raw meat:

1 – Unless you’ve properly prepared beforehand, you probably don’t have the right meal size for your dog. Otherwise, you probably wouldn’t be reading this.

And it is extremely dangerous to break apart frozen meat with a knife. I can’t imagine how many emergency rooms visits this warrants per year.

But, there is nothing wrong with feeding your dog double their usual meal and skipping dinner. Read the next section and my post Why Your Dog Skipping a Meal (or two) Isn’t a Big Deal to learn more.

2 – Unless you introduced frozen raw food at a young age, or this is something you do regularly, your dog probably won’t know what to do with a frozen piece of meat. And the last thing you want to do is leave raw meat in your house unsupervised – that’s how pets and people get sick.

If this is something you’d like to do, I’d recommend starting slowly. Introduce your pup to treat-size portions of frozen raw dog food, and scale up from there.

I Don’t Have Enough Time to Defrost the Raw Food – Is it Okay for my Dog to Skip a Meal?

It is absolutely okay if your dog misses breakfast from time to time. In fact, all three of my dogs skip at least two meals a week.

Similar to the Intermittent Fasting movement currently sweeping through the United States – there are proven health benefits to regularly fasting your dog.

Your dog’s immune system is always working hard to ward off disease and kill off deadly pathogens. However, if your dog always has a full belly, then she/he is often diverting much-needed energy away from the immune system and into the digestive tract.

Don’t get me wrong – your dog will definitely be disappointed in you for a few hours – but, fasting is what’s best for your pup’s health in the long term.

Last, don’t make the mistake of doubling up your dog’s raw food at the next meal. When fasting, your dog’s stomach will shrink, and, at best, doubling up her/his food is a recipe for an upset stomach, or more serious conditions, like dog bloat.

My general rule of thumb is 1.5 times their regular meal that evening and the next morning.

Happy thawing!